There’s no doubt that vinyl plank flooring looks fantastic. The wood can bring a beautifully organic and natural feeling to any home and is an affordable alternative to hardwood floors. However, homeowners are rightly curious as to whether they can install a radiant heating system under this kind of flooring. Is it possible? Is it safe? Will it void the warranty on my flooring?

The short answer is yes; radiant heat can be installed under vinyl plank flooring. However, there are a few things you need to keep in mind before you install radiant heat under your new or existing vinyl floors to ensure you get the best experience.

Let’s get into it.

What is Vinyl Plank Flooring?

Vinyl plank flooring is a type of flooring that’s made to look like hardwood floors. It’s made of multiple layers of PVC fused together. The top layer is a wear layer that protects the floor from scratches, stains, and fading from sunlight.

Vinyl plank flooring is a popular choice for many homeowners because it is durable, easy to install, and clean. It’s also more affordable than hardwood floors and looks great if you want to add a gorgeous, natural, and organic-looking touch.

What is Radiant Heat?

Radiant heat is a type of heating that uses radiant energy to warm up an area. Radiant energy is electromagnetic waves that travel through the air, transferring their energy to objects it comes into contact with.

So, electromagnetic waves travel up into the room, but once they come into contact with an object, this energy is turned into heat. This radiant heat contact warms the objects, thus warming the entire room. In this case, the waves come into contact with your vinyl plank flooring and produce an even coverage of heat around the room. This is different from other types of heating, like forced air heating which pushes heated air aimlessly into space. 

Radiant heat is more efficient because less energy is needed to heat the objects and then the room, rather than trying to force heat the entirety of the room. Radiant heat is also more comfortable because there are no drafts or hot spots.

Can Radiant Heat be Used Under Vinyl Plank Flooring?

Yes, radiant heat can be used under vinyl plank flooring. It’s one of the most recommended heating solutions for when you’re using vinyl plank floors. This is because the radiant heat electromagnetic waves travel up and come into contact with the vinyl floor to produce heat, heating the floor rather than blasting hot air aimlessly into the entire room, much like a traditional radiator does.

In short, vinyl plank floors and radiant heating systems work exceptionally well together. There’s no risk of damage, nor will you risk voiding your warranty. All you need to do is ensure that your heating system on average, won’t exceed 80-85°F, as this is usually the safe temperature limit for vinyl plank flooring. Be sure to check your vinyl plank flooring manufacturer’s instructions for the exact temperature as they may vary. There are a few things to remember when installing radiant heat under vinyl plank flooring. 

Make sure that the radiant heating system is compatible with the vinyl flooring. This is in terms of size, quality, and insulation, but we’ll cover this in more detail shortly. Second, install a radiant heat barrier between the radiant heat and the vinyl flooring. This will protect the vinyl from heat and prevent discoloration, improving the life span of the vinyl planks. If you want the best experience, lay the heating system and then the vinyl floor around two weeks later. Then work on calibrating the temperature.

Slowly adjust your temperature from low to high, roughly increasing by five degrees a day until you reach your desired temperature. This is the best way to avoid damaging either your heating system or flooring.

How to Choose and Install a Radiant Heating System Under Vinyl Plank Flooring

When choosing a radiant heating system to work with your vinyl plank flooring, ensure the system is compatible with your vinyl. This is because radiant heat systems are available in various sizes and watts and, depending on your vinyl floor, will need to match accordingly. What’s more, the size and wattage of the system you need will depend on the square footage of the area you want to heat, the climate, and the R-value of the radiant heat barrier.

The R-value refers to the temperature difference per unit of heat and how much energy (on a unit basis) is needed to provide steady and sustainable warmth to an area. You don’t need to know the science behind this (although you can read about it here if interested), but you do need a system that is strong enough to pass through however thick your vinyl flooring is. QuietWarmth Radiant Heating Systems are compatible with most vinyl floors and provide enough heat to pass through the floors easily.

Some points to note ;

  • Most Radiant heating systems tend to raise your floor by around 1/2-inch. While it’s not a lot, you’ll need to bear it in mind. (QuietWarmth Heating Systems are thin enough to not raise floor height)
  • You’ll want to install an intelligent thermostat. You can have one universal system or a thermostat in every room, so you can adjust the heat throughout your home however you like.
  • Installing a radiant system is easy since it just connects to your existing electrical system.

While all this can sound like a lot, the reality is that it isn’t. Installing a radiant heating system under vinyl plank flooring is not difficult as long as you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Many homeowners and fans of DIY can easily complete this project themselves with guided instructions, or you can get a professional handyperson to fit it for you.

The Benefits of Radiant Heating

With all this in mind, it’s easy to see why you’d consider installing a radiant heating system. The truth is that radiant heat provides far more benefits than your traditional heating system. Most importantly, radiant heating is a far more efficient way to heat your home because it uses less energy than other types of heating. As before, this is because radiant heat heats objects instead of just the air using radiant energy. Modern studies show that you can cut your energy bills by as much as 18% to 21%, with highs of 25%. In some homes, this could be as high as 50%. These are huge savings for such a simple installation. This is backed up by the fact that there is practically no heat loss with radiant systems and even distribution throughout your home.

Additionally, radiant heat is a safer way to heat your home because there are no open flames or hot surfaces. This makes radiant heat ideal for homes with young children or pets. We can all admit that having a wood burner or open fireplace is a beautiful idea; it’s just not ideal in some family homes. Radiant heating systems are, therefore, a much safer and more initiative option.

Radiant heat is also a healthier way to heat your home because it does not circulate dust or bacteria like forced air heating. This is because radiant heat does not rely on air movement to distribute the heat, and you’ll instead get even coverage across every room in your home. This also ties into the fact that radiant heating is a far more comfortable form of heating because there are no drafts or hot spots.

Finally, radiant heating is a more environmentally friendly way to heat your home because it uses less energy than other types of heating and doesn’t produce emissions or pollutants. All in all, radiant heating is the better choice for both your family and the environment.

Get Started with QuietWarmth Radiant Heating Systems

There’s no denying radiant heating has a lot of benefits, and since it’s so easy to install a radiant heating system under your vinyl plank flooring, there’s no reason to choose otherwise. On that note, when you’re ready to enjoy the world of radiant heating yourself, check out our catalog of radiant floor heating systems. 

We stock everything from floating floor systems, tile systems, and even systems for under your existing floor. Everything you need to enjoy radiant heating your way. Check out our online store today, or get in touch and see exactly what we can do for you!

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  • Before we get into how to install heated floors, we first must understand what heated floors are, and why homeowners choose to install them.

    Why install heated floors

    Heated floors are one of the most popular heating options. There is something luxuriant, almost decadent, about the feeling of warm floors under your feet, but it’s also one of the best ways to heat a room. By delivering heat across the floor and allowing the heat to rise, it can provide a more consistent temperature than other forms of heating. And, apart from the controls, it’s almost invisible, removing the need for unsightly radiators.

    Indeed, it’s been popular for thousands of years. Underfloor heating was common in Roman villas, and archeologists have found evidence of floor heating systems that dated to 7,000 years ago. The good news is that with thousands of years of development, modern floor heating is a luxury that anyone can have.

    Heated floors bring more benefits than just comfort. A well-installed system is energy efficient, especially in smaller rooms, helping the environment and keeping energy bills low. They can make homes healthier, since it makes ‘cold’ floors, like tile, more attractive, reducing the use of coverings like carpet or rugs which can trap allergens and bacteria. There is also some evidence that they reduce accidents, such as trips over heaters because it’s all under the floor, or slips on wet surfaces because the heating can speed evaporation.

    What to consider when installing heated floors

    The basics behind every heated floor system are identical. In essence, a heated layer will sit beneath the top surface. This will heat, through conduction, the floor surface. This, in turn, will radiate heat into the room. Other than to the expert eye, the only evidence of a floor heating system will be a control panel.

    However, beyond this simple model, every installation will be different. Factors like power supply, room size and shape, flooring type, and the heating system you are using will all affect the work involved. Always be sure to fully read the manufacturer’s instructions and plan your work carefully, and if you have any doubt, consult a professional. Heated floors can be easy to install, but fixing an installation mistake can be much, much harder!

    These instructions provide a general overview of the steps involved.

    1. Fully prepare the area for installation

    Electric floor heating is installed directly between the subfloor and the final surfacing. Before starting the installation, ensure that the subfloor is fully prepared. It should be level and clear of any defects, for example protruding nails or screws, that might damage the heating mats or cabling. If you are installing over a concrete floor, ensure that a moisture barrier is in place and secure.

    High-quality underlayment can insulate the heated systems from the cold subfloor as well as provide a moisture barrier. It will also prove useful when creating channels for the heating system’s wiring. QuietWalk underlayments work well with most heating systems.

    You will also need a new junction box to supply power to your heating. For most people, this will mean using a licensed electrician. Think about where this box will go, along with the final location of the heating control panel, since that may affect the phasing of the work.

    2. Test fit the heating

    Cable or Mat?

    Electric heating systems mainly come in two types, cable or mats.

    Cable systems offer a lot of flexibility since the cables can be laid almost anywhere you want them. It’s an ideal way to install heating in oddly shaped rooms. However, they do require more work since the cables have to be held in place. And it also requires a lot of planning, ensuring the cables cover the area without crossing over while maintaining a consistent amount of heating cable across the whole floor. Mat systems are, for most people, much easier. The mats will be threaded with the right amount of heating elements, meaning they can just be rolled out. And because the mat, rather than the cable, can be fixed down, it reduces the risk of damage during installation.

    Layout the heating

    Whichever system is used, lay out the entire area before fixing anything in place. This allows you to check your plan practically, ensuring that you have even coverage and helping you to identify any difficult areas.

    If you are using cable, loosely tape this down as you go. And with both mats and cable, ensure that they lie flat, with no overlap. They cannot run through or under anything like walls or baseboards, and there should also be clearance from walls and fixtures like showers, baths, and toilets, manufacturers’ guidance will vary, but this is typically five or six inches.

    unrolling floor heating
    Unrolling QuietWarmth Mats

    3. Check the installation

    It’s good practice to check the mat regularly to ensure that it is working correctly. Electrical floor heating works by resistance, with the current creating heat in the wires. It must do this safely. If something goes wrong, it might just mean no heat, but an electrical short can have catastrophic consequences.

    Use a digital multimeter to measure the resistance (or ohms) at key points in the installation. The manufacturer’s instructions will contain details of where you should test and the measurements you should read. If everything is correct at this stage, then you can be confident you’ll have a heated floor at the end. However, it’s worth rechecking periodically to ensure that some unnoticed damage hasn’t occurred.

    checking ohms reading on floor heating
    Checking Ohms Reading

    4. Fix the installation in place

    Once you are happy with the layout, and have tested the cables or mats, you can start fixing the installation in place. This step will depend on the type of mat or cable you are using. Some mats, for example, even have adhesive.

    Whatever way you are fixing the heating in place, ensure that it lies flat and that there are no bumps or bubbles created by the matting. Floor heating works by convection, so any air gaps at this stage will reduce its efficiency, and may create problems when laying the final floor surface.

    You should also create some channels in the subfloor, using a tool appropriate for the material, for the cabling that will run to the junction box. By this stage, you should be close to having a working heating system, and it is a good idea to test using your multimeter again. It’s also a good practice to take some photos of the system in place, and label cables to make it clear what each is. Together, they can prove invaluable if needed for troubleshooting the installation, whether during the process or years later.

    channeling for floor heating wires
    Notches in Subfloor

    5. Complete the electrical installation

    Now that the heating is in place, it can be connected to the power and the control panel. You may want to use a licensed electrician for this stage. However, if you choose to undertake it, ensure that the power supply is turned off while you are working with it, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for testing.

    Once you have tested the full installation, turn the power off again. Floor heating is designed to work when fully installed and covered by the flooring, and using it before installation is complete can risk damaging the system.

    Electrical Hookups for floor heating
    Electrical Hookups

    6. Install the flooring

    Floor heating usually has to be encapsulated in a mortar bed however, QuietWarmth’s advanced ink technology is thin enough to prevent the need for any extra messy self-levelers or mortars. This will save you from the time investment and the headaches that come with using self-levelers or mortars. QuietWarmth provides different systems for different floor covering materials which can be seen below.

    If you’re still using mesh mats most mortars and compounds are suitable, it’s worth checking since some might not have problems with the changes in temperature that come with use. While laying your mortar or compound, take care not to damage any wires and fully cover the system. It is, again, worth testing your floor heating system as you go, so you can identify any damage caused during the installation process.

    Installing heated floors under floating floors

    QuietWarmth for Floating Floors makes flooring installation quick and easy. Once you have everything in place, simply lay the floating floors over the heating system, being careful not to damage the mats or wiring along the way. This saves time since you don’t have to wait for any mortars to dry.

    Installing heated floors under tile flooring

    QuietWarmth For Tile is great because it cuts down the installation time needed by eliminating the need to use self-levelers over the heating mats before laying the tile.

    quietwarmth floor heating installation chart

    Installing heated floors under existing floors

    Floor heating is, undoubtedly, much easier to install before the final floor surface, but what about under existing floors, for example, wooden boards in older houses?

    The good news is that it is possible. But follows a different method and uses heating panels or mats designed to be attached to the joists. Rather than heating the surrounding mortar and floor through conduction, they warm an air gap created between the heating elements and the floor. This air gap warms, heating both the floor and the air above through any gaps.

    Installing under an existing floor can be a simpler process since the mats are designed to be attached to the joists, it can require less preparation — there is less contact, and therefore less risk of damage — and there is no need to mortar afterward. It can be as straightforward as stapling the heating mats in place and checking as you progress.

    However, gaining access can be difficult, especially if there is limited space. And because it requires specially designed mats, you are reliant on them fitting, something that cannot be guaranteed, especially in older buildings that were constructed at a time with fewer building and construction standards in place. It’s wise to thoroughly check your floor and research your options before committing resources.

    QuietWarmth for Existing Floors makes the installation process simple and quick!

    Using the heated floors

    Although you might be eager to test your heating, ensure you follow the manufacturers’ instructions for the first use. This can be particularly important for some installations, for example under tile, where you might need to allow the mortar time to cure. But, once you are good to go, prepare yourself for that unbeatable feeling of a warm room and toasty toes at the flick of a switch or the click of a timer.

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  • Many homeowners are looking for ways to spruce up their homes on a budget. Do-It-Yourself projects have always had a niche in the home improvement arena, but during the pandemic, they took off. One of the easier projects out there is replacing carpet with hard flooring. You can find people who document their projects on any form of social media you choose to help you understand how to do what you need to do. We’ve compiled information to help you with your DIY project, so when you decide to replace your carpet with luxury vinyl flooring you’ll know exactly what to do.

    There are many benefits to replacing carpet with vinyl flooring including durability, easy clean-up, and a wide variety of options. While carpet is softer, it’s harder to keep clean and over time it wears down. That’s why if an apartment has carpet they’re generally replacing it every few years regardless of how well you took care of it. Let’s talk a little further about the benefits of vinyl flooring:

    • Durability: Vinyl plank flooring is good for people who want a long-term flooring option in their homes. Quality vinyl flooring holds up well with constant traffic on it. Compared to carpet, vinyl lasts years longer so your investment will be well worth it.
    • Easy to clean: Vinyl is one of the easier floors to clean. You can sweep up any hair or dust and then mop them according to the instructions given by the manufacturer. It’s great for people with pets or kids or anyone who considers themselves messy.
    • Sound reduction: With QuietBoard underlayment the recycled fibers absorb sound so you can trust that you won’t be able to hear every step or movement from other rooms.
    • Multiple options: Vinyl plank flooring has a variety of options for you to choose from, even more so than carpet. You can pick from designs, wood imitating, and more. It’s all up to your style and what you want your home to look like.
    • Cost: Depending on the quality you decide to go with, vinyl plank flooring usually ranges from $2-$8 a square foot.

    How to replace carpet with vinyl plank flooring?

    As we said before many people document their journey of replacing carpets with vinyl flooring online. We have compiled all of the useful information online into an all-in-one resource for replacing your carpet with vinyl plank flooring.

    How to Remove Carpet

    1. You’ll want to start by removing all the furniture before ripping up the carpet.

    •  You will want to clear the room of all furniture and items that could be damaged during the removal.
    • It may be worth removing doors that open inwards as well.

    2. Pull the Carpet from the Tack Strip

    Tack strips along the perimeter of the room are used to hold the carpet in place. To remove the carpet:

    • Start with a corner, pull up the carpet, a pliers makes this much easier. The carpet should pull up easily.
    • If the carpet does not pull up easily, use a utility knife to cut a 6-8 inch square in the corner.
    • Use the pliers to grab the side of the piece for more leverage.
    • Once the piece is removed continue to pull the carpet by hand 

    3. Cut the Carpet into Strips

    • Pull back about 2-4 feet of carpet, (whatever you’re comfortable with) and use a utility knife to cut it along the fold. Cutting from the back side of the carpet.
    • Roll up the pieces and use duct tape or masking tape to secure the rolls.
    • Continue this process until the carpet is completely removed
    • If there’s a closet in the room, simply cut the carpet at the start of the closet door. Remove this piece separately from the other rolls.

    4. Remove the Carpet Pad

    If there is carpet pad underneath, you will remove this next using the same method as removing the carpet. Carpet pad is generally lighter and easier to remove than carpet.

    • If the subfloor is plywood, the carpet pad will be held down by staples. You will need to use a scraper to pull them all up.
    • If the subfloor is concrete, the carpet pad will be glued down. You will need a sharp-bladed scraper to scrape the pieces stuck to the floor off.

    5. Remove the Tack Strips

    • Use a flat pry bar to pull up the tack strips around the perimeter of the room.
    • Try to wear protective footwear as there will be staples and nails during the removal.

    6. Cleaning the Subfloor

    • After all the carpeting materials are removed, remove all excess wood chips from the tack strips, nails, and staples.
    • Use a broom or shop vac to remove the final dust and debris.

    How to Install Vinyl Plank Flooring

    1. Consider the Height of the New Flooring

    • Vinyl plank flooring is usually thinner than carpet. This can leave you with mismatched flooring height when entering another section of flooring. Gaps can also be left between the floors and the baseboards.
    • Usually, baseboards and door jambs have to be refit. However, QuietBoard underlayment is thick enough to fill the gaps and act as a raised subfloor. It also allows you to revert to the old flooring height if you ever wish to install thicker flooring again.
    • QuietBoard’s dense fiber material will also cover up subfloor imperfections. Providing a moisture barrier, sound reduction, impact dampening, and all of the benefits of a normal flooring underlayment.

    2. Preparing to Install the New Flooring

    • If QuietBoard is installed, you are ready to install your new vinyl plank flooring right away!
    • Plan to install perpendicular to the longest wall in the room to keep cutting minimal.
    • Stagger the plank ends by about 6-12 inches between each row to give a natural-looking appearance.
    • Leave the manufacturer-recommended amount of expansion space between planks and walls.

    3. Installing Vinyl Planks

    • Trim the short tongue edge on the first vinyl plank with a utility knife.
    • Lay the first plank, appropriately spaced from the wall as discussed earlier. Hold the second plank at an angle and insert its tongue edge into the first plank’s groove edge. Lower the angle of the second plank to snap the planks together.
    • Continue this process for the rest of the row, trimming the last plank as needed.
    • For the rest of the rows, use the same angle-and-snap method, attach them to the previous row’s planks side-by-side as well as attach the ends of the planks.

    If you’re more of a visual learner this video does a great job of explaining how to install vinyl plank flooring

    Once you’re done installing you’ll have beautiful, brand-new floors! If you run into any issues during this process don’t freak out. DIY is sometimes a lot of trial and error. If you don’t like how something is turning out you can always start over and try again. And if it gets to a point where you’re frustrated you can always call in a professional to help you.

    What issues can I run into while installing vinyl plank floors?

    • Mismatched floor height: If you aren’t redoing all the floors in your home there’s a potential that your floors could have mismatched heights. You can avoid this by using a level to make sure the subfloor with the vinyl matches the height of the other flooring. This is also a good practice to make sure all of your newly installed floors are level.
    • Gaps between the floors and the baseboards: Since vinyl planks are usually thinner than carpet, you may run into gaps between your floors and baseboards.
    • Issues with the subfloor: Sometimes when you remove the carpet, the subfloor can be worn down. You’ll have to assess and check if the subfloor is level before installing the vinyl flooring. If it’s not level you might have to replace the subflooring. 

    QuietBoard is affordable and makes it easy to fix the issues listed above. QuietBoard will raise the floor height to match the height of other floorings, it will raise the floor height to fill the gaps between the floors and baseboards, and it will also cover subfloor imperfections and provide the benefits of a normal underlayment.

    Summary

    Some DIY projects might seem like a huge undertaking but with all the resources out there these days, it’s a lot easier to try and figure out how to do home projects on your own. While we broke down how to remove carpet and install vinyl flooring easily, be aware that it could take several days to accomplish or even longer depending on the pace you work at. The best piece of advice is just to take a deep breath, take your time, and enjoy the process of learning a new skill.

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  • Can you cut any of the Quietwarmth Radiant heat film mats? Well, Yes, you can… All the QuietWarmth mats are ready to go right out of the box, so if you do not need to cut to length to fit your area, you can just unroll and go. But one of the best attributes that makes the QuietWarmth radiant heat products unique from many other traditional wired floor heat products is the fact you can cut the mats to length.

    All the QuietWarmth products are made from a conductive ink technology, because of this, it allows for our products to be flexible and thinner than a credit card. And it makes Cutting them is easy for all 3 product applications and they only require a regular household scissors. For Floating Floor applications – the ones labeled “float” on the package – are for floors that float over the subfloor like floating vinyl planks that are 4mm or greater in overall thickness, laminate, floating engineered wood, and floating tile installations like Mohawk’s Fast Tile. The Float mats just require cutting between the dotted lines. Do not cut into the black heating stripe. If a black stripe is cut into by mistake, simply cut off the next black strip between the dotted lines. Each boxed mat comes with 2 colored insulating discs to cover the freshly cut silver bus bar ends. Be sure to cover each side completely with the colored disks.

    For traditional tile and glue-down flooring applications – the ones labeled “tile” on the package – are for floors that require thin-set mortar or other adhesives. Just like the Float mats, the Tile mats require cutting across the mat – between the black stripes just as before. After cutting, the Tile Mats do require an additional step. To get a good seal around the cut edge of the mat and to properly create a moisture-tight barrier, Cut back one black heat stripe from both sides of the panel. This will deaden the last stripe so the mat will properly be encased in the membrane. Make sure not to cut into the second black stripe. In the box, the mat comes with the 2 colored insulating disks. On each side, Fold the colored insulating disk over the ends of the silver bus bars – covering these ends completely to avoid electrical leakage. We have placed a link in the description to our video installation instructions and how to fully prepare the Tile mats for installation even after cutting.

    Finally, when cutting the QuietWarmth Radiant Heat system for under subfloors – the ones labeled “joist” on the package – are for under subfloors with access below with 16” on center joist spacing. Unlike float and tile versions that you can cut almost any length off as needed, the Joist version is built upon 1ft panel increments. Only cut between the 1 ft panels that are marked “cut here”. Do not cut randomly into any part of the black stripes that are not labeled where to cut. Doing so will disable the mat from working properly. Insulate the cut ends with the provided colored discs – on both of the freshly cut silver bus bar ends

    If for whatever reason you misplace or cannot locate the colored insulating discs, you may simply use electrical tape to cover the ends of the cut silver bus bars.

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  • QuietWarmth Peel and Stick radiant heat film for traditional tile can be cut to length only. This white membrane adhered to the film heater is the watertight membrane that will protect the mat from moisture. Please understand that right out of the box the mat is NOT watertight. Now, this does not mean the mats can be used in wet areas like shower floors, it just means it is moisture tight from the adhesives or mortar you will be applying for the tile or floor covering needs. Thoughtfully, the mats have been left “unsealed” right from the factory so any needed cutting can be easily implemented before turning it into a moisture-tight membrane.

    So, to customize the length of the mat, Cut the mat between the black heating stripes. Do not cut into a black stripe as that will cause damage to the mat and GFCI tripping at the Thermostat. The next step is crucial in cutting the mat. To get a good seal around the cut edge of the mat and to properly create a moisture-tight barrier, Cut back one black heat stripe from both sides of the panel. This will deaden the last stripe so the mat will properly be encased in the membrane. Make sure not to cut into the second black stripe. In the box, the mat comes with these 2 colored insulating disks for any cutting. On each side, Fold the colored insulating disk over the ends of the silver bus bars – covering these ends completely to avoid electrical leakage.

    Finally, the last step of cutting the mat is equally important. Seal the edges of the mat so the mat is moisture tight. What happens if you did not need to cut the mat? No problem, this last step will need to be performed as it was left open with the flexibility to cut to length. So, peel back the bottom release liner on the inside of the flap and adhere the heating element by pressing down firmly. Once the heating element is adhered to the bottom of the flap carefully peel back the upper release liner and press down to seal the edges of the membrane. Do this to both sides of the mat. MAKE SURE TO PRESS OUT ANY AIR BUBBLES AS YOU ARE ADHERING THE TOP FLAP TO THE BOTTOM. Once this is complete, install the QuietWarmth peel and stick mat as per the rest of the instructions.

    So as a reminder – There are 3 main steps to cutting the QuietWarmth Peel and Stick Radiant Heat Film for Tile mats. Cut between the black stripes Deaden the last black stripe with an insulated cut back bar Encase the white membrane with the removal of the release liners.

    1. Cut between black stripes
    2. Deaden the last black stripe with an insulated cut-back bar
    3. Encase the white membrane with the removal of the release liners

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  • You are about to install your new flooring. As you lay the first plank you realize that there is going to be a gap between your baseboard and your floor. Don’t worry, this issue is more common than you think. Especially with the rise of replacing carpets with hard surface flooring like luxury vinyl plank. There is one major factor in how to fill a gap between your baseboard and flooring. Are your floors installed already or not? In this article, we are going to cover ways to fix gaps for flooring yet to be installed and floors that have already been installed.

    Fixing gaps before installing the floors

    Ideally, you want to address a gap between your baseboard and flooring before your flooring is installed. This method is closer to solving the root of the problem rather than covering up the issue after the flooring is installed. To close the gap, you will need to raise your flooring. Here are the best methods for raising your flooring.

    Install a Fiber Board Underlayment

    QuietBoard is a specially formulated fiberboard underlayment that makes fixing the gap cheap and easy. It is made in the USA from 100% recycled fibers and has no volatile organic compounds (VOCs) or other harmful emissions. Simply layout the boards and tape the seams.

    Not only will QuietBoard raise the floor height, but will give your new flooring other benefits as well. The dense fibers will reduce noise, support your flooring, and absorb moisture.

    Fixing gaps after floors are already installed

    If your flooring is already installed, and you are noticing gaps between your baseboard and flooring, you’ll need to take a different approach. Here are the four best methods:

    Use Caulk to Fill the Gap

    If you’re looking for a quick fix and looks aren’t the most important factor, caulk is a great option. You will want to line the floor with blue painter’s tape to minimize cleanup. You’ll want to use a paintable latex silicone caulk to fill the gap. Once the caulk is dried, paint the caulk to match the baseboards.

    Install Quarter Rounds

    Quarter rounds are a relatively cheap, nice-looking option. Go to any hardware or home improvement store and get some quarter-round trim, which is about 3/4 inch high and can be bought at any hardware or home improvement store. Cut it to length with a miter saw to angle the ends, then nail it to the baseboard with finish nails, being careful not to nail it into the floor. Fill the nail holes with wood putty, then paint or stain to match your existing floor planks. Generally, you want to match the quarter rounds with your flooring. A potential setback is struggling to find quarter rounds that match your existing flooring.

    Replace the baseboards

    If you have large gaps, you may want to replace the baseboards. Use a putty knife to gently pry the base away from the wall. Use your hands to remove the baseboards the rest of the way. You will want to buy slightly larger baseboards, this will prevent a repaint. It will also leave the cleanest looking finish of all the options.

    If you have floating floors and don’t want to get new baseboards, it may be worth taking out the existing flooring and adding an underlayment made to raise your flooring like QuietBoard Underlayment.

    Add Insulation

    When there is a gap between your flooring and baseboard you lose insulation. Adding weather stripping, like you would on a door or window will add that insulation back into your home. However, this may not always be the most visually appealing option.

    Final Thoughts

    Once you know how to fill a gap between your baseboard and flooring it’s an easy fix. Ideally, you want to address potential gaps before you install your new flooring. However, if your flooring is already installed or you have gaps that developed over time, fixing the gaps with the methods above will work as well.

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  • It all depends on how many watts your radiant heat system consumes per hour and how much your lifestyle plans to live with the system turned on.

    Since electric companies charge us a rate on how many Kilowatt-hours per month our homes consume it is easy to compute and understand how much an electric radiant heat mat consumes if all you know is how many watts it consumes per hour.

    It is important to remember, that 1 KiloWatt is equal to 1000 Watts. And we know that QuietWarmth mats consume about 12 watts per hour per sq ft. The final variable in the equation is to know what your electric company charges for every kilowatt-hour, it can be found on your billing statement. The national average rate is about 12 cents. Understanding how many hours a day you will want the heating comfort is a great piece of the puzzle to calculating how much it will consume.

    Ok, so we have all we need to know to understand and calculate how much electricity Quietwarmth mats will consume per day.

    So for example, Let’s say you have one 3×5 QuietWarmth mat in the bathroom which covers 15 sq ft. Take that 15 sq ft mat times the 12 watts per sq ft consumption we know the mat will consume. The mat will consume 180 watts. Now we need to convert those watts to Kilowatts to make it friendlier to figure the electric company rates. Take the 180 watts divide by 1000 to convert to kilowatts to get .18 kilowatts consumed per hour. Take your electric company’s kilowatt rate found on your bill – but for now, let’s take the national average of 12 cents times the .18 watts consumed to get the cost to run the mat per hour at 2 cents. If you were to run this 15 sq ft bathroom mat for 8 hours a day, it would cost you about 16 cents per day. Usually, once the mat gets up to the desired temperature in the first few hours, it will consume about half the amount of electricity because the thermostat will not continuously call for the heat. Also using a programmable thermostat can help with cost efficiency as well, allowing you to turn up the heat around your lifestyle in that area.

    If you do not feel like doing these calculations or math really isn’t your game, you can go to QuietWarmth.com as we have a helpful energy cost calculator that figures the cost for you. As you can quickly see QuietWarmth radiant heat mats are very efficient and for pennies per day YOU can have warm feet.

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  • QuietBoard Underlayment is designed for use with floating vinyl plank, laminate, and engineered wood flooring products. The sound reduction underlay system is easy to install and is suitable for use over most types of industry-approved subfloors (3/4” plywood, concrete, OSB flooring, etc.).

    Subfloor Preparation

    All wood and concrete subfloors must be flat within 1/8” over a 6’ span, or 3/16” over a 10’ span. All seams of QuietBoard must meet this requirement as well. Be sure the subfloor is clean, smooth, and free of dust and debris. All areas must be checked prior to installation.

    Installations by method

    Floating Installation:

    QuietBoard can only be floated when paired with a 4mm or thicker floating floor covering.

    1. Begin laying panels of QuietBoard perpendicular to the flooring direction, butting them tightly
    2. Panels need to be staggered at approximately 50%, eliminating a grid-style layout
    3. 1/4″ Expansion gap is to be left at all perimeter walls
    4. All continuous/linear seams must be taped using quality duct tape, a minimum of 2 inches wide
    5. Install flooring perpendicular to QuietBoard according to the flooring manufacturers.

    Glue Down Installation:

    Glue down installation is required for planks less than 4mm thick

    1. Begin by troweling a good quality pressure-sensitive adhesive using the recommended trowel size from the adhesive manufacturer
    2. Lay panels of QuietBoard perpendicular to flooring direction, butting them tightly
    3. QuietBoard panels are to be installed while the adhesive is still wet.
    4. QuietBoard panels need to be rolled with a 75lb-100lb roller to ensure a full bond is made.
    5. Panels need to be staggered at approximately 50% eliminating a grid-style layout
    6. ¼” Expansion gap is to be left at all perimeter walls
    7. All seams need to be properly prepared in accordance with the flooring manufacturer’s recommendations. Failure to properly prepare seams will void all warranty.
    8. We do not recommend taping seams in glue-down installation.
    9. Install flooring perpendicular to QuietBoard according to the manufacturer’s specifications

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  • Running into an uneven floor is frustrating, this can lead to unexpected costs, in both time and money. If you want to raise the height of a floor, the cheapest and easiest way is to add a thick underlayment designed for the job. There are other options too like adding a framed wooden subfloor or floor leveling compound before installing new flooring. These are less common due to the fact that they are more labor-intensive and time-consuming.

    Why Raise Floor Height?

    There are many reasons for raising floor height. You might want to raise the floor height so it meets flush with another room. This will make it easier for people to get around, especially if they have mobility issues or are carrying something heavy.

    You are replacing an old flooring material (like laminate) with a new one that is thinner (like luxury vinyl planks). The luxury vinyl planks won’t be as thick and will leave a gap between the flooring and the baseboards. Depending on how you choose to raise the floor height, you can gain extra benefits from the materials used.

    5 Cheap Options for Raising Floor Height

    Here are the 5 cheap options for raising floor height. Let’s take a closer look at each one.

    QuietBoard Underlayment

    QuietBoard is a specially formulated fiberboard underlayment that makes raising your flooring cheap and easy. It is made in the USA from 100% recycled fibers and has no volatile organic compounds (VOCs) or other harmful emissions. Simply layout the boards and tape the seams.

    Not only will QuietBoard raise the floor height, but will give your new flooring other benefits as well. The dense fibers will reduce noise, support your flooring, and absorb moisture.

    Pros

    • Cheap
    • Easy to Install (can be floated, glued, or mechanically fastened)
    • Recycled Fibers absorb water and let moisture evaporate
    • Compatible with float or glue-down flooring installations
    • Easy to uninstall and go back to the original floor height

    Cons

    • Only comes in 1/4″ (6mm) thickness

    Wood Fiber Board

    Wood fiberboard is one of the most affordable ways to raise floor height. It’s also a good choice if you’re looking for a low-cost alternative to plywood.

    Wood fiberboard consists of sawdust and wood chips held together with synthetic resin. When compared to plywood, wood fiberboard lacks compression resistance and moisture resistance. That said, if you’re putting in new floors for your whole house and want something fast and inexpensive enough that you don’t mind replacing them every few years or so if they get damaged or destroyed by water damage, wood fiberboard may be worth considering as an option!

    Pros

    • Cheap
    • Easy to install

    Cons

    • susceptible to water damage
    • can be dusty & messy during the installation

    Floor Leveling Compound

    Using a floor leveling compound to elevate the floor in a specific room and make it match the rest of the house is a low-cost option. This approach is popular among homeowners since it works when applied straight to concrete. If your project is not on a concrete subfloor, this method may not be the best option.

    You can purchase a floor leveling compound online or at your local home improvement store. The installation method is usually simple once you’ve purchased it. The steps are listed below:

    1. Start by sketching out the height you want to achieve. Consider all factors, including the type of flooring you have.
    2. Clean the Floor: Clean the floor thoroughly to eliminate all debris and grease and to guarantee that the compound adheres.
    3. In an 18.92-liter (5-gallon) bucket, combine the leveling compound with water. Attach a paddle mixer to a drill for a flawless and constant mix.
    4. To apply the compound, follow these steps: Directly on the floor, apply the leveling compound (from one corner to another). Make sure you complete the process within 10 to 20-minutes.
    5. More compound: Make sure you mix and apply the compound until the desired height is reached. Allow about 24 hours for the compound to set and cure. You can now install the chosen material after it has completely cured.

    Pros

    • Cheap
    • Durable

    Cons

    • Difficult to install in larger quantities
    • Cannot go back to the original floor height
    • Only works well on concrete

    Deck Mud

    When tiles are used on the surface, this method works well. To begin, get sufficient deck mud for the endeavor. After that, proceed as follows:

    1. Clean the floor: It doesn’t have to be spotless; just make sure it’s safe to work on.
    2. Layout chicken wire across the floor
    3. Pour the mud on the floor: Fill the floor with deck mud (to the center from one side of the room and again to the center from the other side of the room).
    4. Use a compactor and a level to ensure the mud is compact and level.

    Pros

    • Cheap

    Cons

    • Difficult to install in larger quantities
    • Cannot go back to the original floor height

    Framed Wooden Subfloor

    If you’re handy, measuring the height deficit and constructing a wooden base that is the right height is another option. When constructing the wooden base, measurements are crucial. For example, you will have to consider the height of the frame, the height of the plywood you will lay over the frame, and the height of the flooring. Once the measurements are made and the base is constructed, it should be covered with 3/4in plywood. With the cost of wood and the woodwork needed, this is the most expensive and time-consuming of the methods.

    Pros

    • Can fill a variety of different heights needed.

    Cons

    • Difficult installation
    • More expensive option

    Final Thoughts

    Raising the floor height in your home doesn’t have to be a costly process. Depending on your unique flooring needs, you can choose any of the methods listed above. In most cases, we recommend choosing QuietBoard fiberboard underlayment. It is cost-effective, easy to install, and doesn’t lock you into your new flooring height. It also performs like a quality underlayment, reducing noise, providing support, and absorbing moisture from the subfloor below.

    If you have questions about your flooring needs, feel free to call us at (888) 379-9695 as we have been specializing in eco-friendly flooring solutions for over 30 years!

    QuietBoard Comparison Chart
    QuietBoard vs. Other Options

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  • How to install the peel and stick membrane on the QuietWarmth radiant heat film for tile… This small video is to show how to stick the “peel and stick” membrane to the subfloor, assuming all previous steps to prepare the mat have been followed. There is a link in the description for another video to help you seal and prepare the mat for this part of the installation.

    1. The subfloor must be clean and dry. It is important to have all dust and debris cleaned off the subfloor before adhering the QuietWarmth tile mat.
    2. Dry fit the mats before adhering them to ensure they will fit to a planning diagram that you would have planned out way before this step. This will ensure lead wires will run correctly to the junction box.
    3. Once the mats are in the proper position, roll the end with the connections back far enough to peel back approximately 12” of the release paper to expose a portion of the adhesive surface. Press this exposed section of the mat onto the surface and then roll the other end back to the point where the release paper was removed.
    4. Begin pulling the release liner off and hand smooth the mat into position as it unrolls to achieve a positive bond while avoiding trapping air bubbles.
    5. For adjacent mats, follow the same procedure starting with alignment of the side-by-side mats in a butt joint fashion. Do not overlap any mats.
    6. Once you have the mats in their permanent place, a licensed electrician can help you make the final power connections.

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  • QuietWalk branded flooring underlayments are the #1 trusted underlayments on the market that are sustainably constructed from repurposed and recycled fiber materials that would have otherwise been dumped into our landfills, AND they were developed right here in the USA! This innovative design of QuietWalk underlayments not only help reduce the impact on our environment, but it gives your new hard surface floors a premium underlayment without the premium price unlike other cork, foam, and other petroleum-based materials.

    QuietWalk protects against harmful water, helps to reduce unwanted noise, improves lifetime durability, and promotes healthy comfort to your home. QuietWalk’s power is in the fibers, and Here’s how…

    QuietWalk can be installed over wood or concrete subfloors. But its exclusive Dri-Wick Technology is what sets it apart from all others for water protection, especially over concrete floors. Concrete constantly emits invisible vapors, and those vapors become visible when you block and trap them. These droplets of water that form from blocking and trapping vapors can become harmful to your floors over time and can compromise the healthy air quality of your home through potential mold growth. QuietWalk’s Dri-wick technology never allows vapors to become trapped – forcing the concrete to breathe. The active anti-microbial treated fibers are unrolled over the top of the subfloor while the attached vapor barrier lies beneath the underside of the floor protecting it from harmful moisture and water vapor. QuietWalk underlayments have a built-in lip and tape system to achieve full water protection coverage, this will save you time and money from having to buy seam tape materials for the installation.

    Dri-Wick Technology Infographic
    Dri-Wick Technology Explained

    True to its namesake, QuietWalk inherently reduces unwanted noise in your home and can help make floating floors sound and feel more like solid floors underfoot. The dense fiber structure absorbs and controls sound and helps to keep it from transmitting to other rooms. This is why QuietWalk products are specified and used often in condos and multi-family living spaces and are HOA recommended! Look at our official sound scores and you will quickly see how they lead the industry against Noise and FOR Quiet!

    Sound Dampening
    Sound Reduction Explained

    QuietWalk’s dense fiber construction gives your floors, and their joints, the strength they need to stand up to everyday life. The fiber structure helps smooth out subfloor imperfections and will not crush over time under your busy hustle and bustle, always giving your floors the right support, they need to live long and look beautiful. QuietWalk does the behind-the-scenes work so your Floor can take the credit.

    QuietWalk acts like a thermal blanket for the underside of the floor which adds energy efficiency to your home. It helps insulate your home, working to keep the elements out and everyone inside comfortable and happy. QuietWalk products also exceed stringent indoor air quality standards – there are no detected VOC’s or chemical off-gassing to create an unhealthy environment in your home – this is recognized by our GREENGUARD GOLD certification which is proudly displayed on each QuietWalk label.

    So go ahead and get busy living on your beautiful new floors, with the #1 trusted underlayment underneath them QuietWalk completely protects your floors to live long and look beautiful!

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  • How to Install Underlayment for Laminate Using QuietWalk

    All wood and concrete subfloors must be flat within 1/8″ over a 6′ span, or 3/16″ over a 10′ span. All areas must be checked prior to installation.

    General Information

    Product may be installed over:

    • QuietWalk Underlayment be used over concrete or wood subfloor
    • Suitable with Radiant Heat Systems

    Recommended Uses:

    • Laminate Flooring
    • Floating Engineered Wood
    • Floating Hardwood
    • Floating Bamboo

    Subfloor and Preparation:

    • All subfloors must be flat, clean, smooth, and dry*
    • Sand any rough surfaces and/or uneven jobs
    • Fill any cracks on concrete or panel joints wider than 1/8″ using a recommended patch/leveling product

    Installation Methods

    Floating Floor Installation

    • Be sure the subfloor is clean, smooth, free of dust and debris, and dry*
    • Roll QuietWalk Underlayment over the subfloor with the vapor barrier film (imprinted side) facing up
    • The perimeter edges of QuietWalk underlayment need to be 1/2″ to 3/4″ away from the wall
    • Seams need to be butted together flush, do not overlap the pad
    • Tape the seams with duct tape, unless the roll is provided with a factory attached lip and tape system
    • Install laminate flooring according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions

    * In geographic areas where concrete slabs are subject to excessive moisture, a calcium chloride moisture test is required. Vapor emission readings in excess of 5 lbs. per 1,000 square feet in 24 hours will require additional protection such as a concrete sealant or polyethylene sheeting.

    NOTE: All rolls of QuietWalk underlayment are cut to a minimum 100 square feet. The average thickness of QuietWalk underlayment is .125 of an inch. The average weight of a roll is 12 lbs.

    Due to the nature of our manufacturing process and the use of recycled materials, the pad thickness may vary .02 of an inch plus or minus. Actual weight of each roll may also vary 1.2 lbs. plus-or-minus. While it may appear that one roll is slightly larger than another, we guarantee this slight variance DOES NOT affect the coverage area nor the sound absorption benefits of the product.

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